Meghalaya, India

Shillong Travel Guide

Scotland of the East, with waterfalls and living root bridges

Overview

About Shillong

Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, sits at roughly 1,500 metres on a plateau of pine-covered hills in India's North-East. Its cool climate, rolling slopes and colonial-era bungalows earned it the old nickname "Scotland of the East", and it remains one of the most pleasant hill towns in the region to spend a few unhurried days in.

The town is the heartland of the Khasi people, and their matrilineal traditions, churches, markets and food give Shillong a culture quite distinct from the rest of India. It is also known for its music: guitar shops, live gigs and a deep love of rock and blues are part of everyday life here, and you will hear it in cafes across Laitumkhrah and Police Bazaar.

For most visitors, Shillong is also a base for exploring the wider Khasi Hills. Within a day's drive lie the deep gorges and waterfalls of Sohra (Cherrapunji), the famous living root bridges, the clear waters of the Umngot river at Dawki and the tidy village of Mawlynnong near the Bangladesh border. Plan for winding roads and changeable weather, and the reward is some of the most striking scenery in the country.

  • Waterfalls
  • Living root bridges
  • Khasi culture
  • Music scene
  • Pine forests
  • Umiam Lake

Sightseeing

Best Places to Visit in Shillong

Lakes & Viewpoints

  • Umiam Lake

    A large reservoir on the Guwahati road, ringed by forested hills. Stop at the viewpoints for sunset or take a boat out on the water.

  • Ward's Lake

    A small horseshoe-shaped lake in the heart of town with a wooden bridge, paddle boats and shaded walking paths, ideal for a quiet evening stroll.

  • Shillong Peak

    The highest point around the town, offering a sweeping view over Shillong and the surrounding hills on a clear day. It lies within an Air Force area, so carry ID.

  • Laitlum Canyons

    A dramatic ridge on the edge of the plateau where grassy slopes drop away into deep valleys. Mornings are best before the mist rolls in.

Waterfalls & Nature

  • Elephant Falls

    A series of cascades a short drive from town, reached by steps that lead down through ferns and moss. It is fullest during and just after the monsoon.

Culture & Markets

  • Don Bosco Museum

    A multi-storey museum in Mawlai devoted to the cultures of the North-East, with galleries on tribal dress, crafts, music and religion, plus a rooftop skywalk.

  • Police Bazaar and Bara Bazaar

    Police Bazaar is the busy town centre for shopping and street food, while the sprawling Bara Bazaar (Iewduh) is a traditional Khasi market selling everything from produce to cane baskets.

Nearby Excursions

  • Sohra (Cherrapunji)

    Once famous as one of the wettest places on earth, Sohra is a plateau of gorges, caves and waterfalls such as Nohkalikai and Seven Sisters Falls, along with Mawsmai Cave.

  • Living Root Bridges, Nongriat

    Bridges grown by the Khasi from the roots of rubber fig trees. The double-decker bridge at Nongriat involves a steep trek of a few thousand steps each way, so go prepared.

  • Dawki and the Umngot River

    A border town where boats glide over water so clear it seems they are floating in air. The river is at its clearest in the dry winter months.

  • Mawlynnong

    A neat village of flower-lined paths and bamboo dustbins, often called one of the cleanest in Asia, with a living root bridge and a bamboo viewing tower nearby.

Experiences

Top Things to Do in Shillong

  1. 1

    Trek to a living root bridge

    Make the descent to Nongriat for the double-decker bridge and natural pools, or visit an easier root bridge near Mawlynnong if steep steps are not for you.

  2. 2

    Go boating at Dawki

    Hire a small wooden boat on the Umngot river, swim in the calmer stretches and watch life along the border village banks.

  3. 3

    Catch live music

    Look out for gigs at cafes and pubs around Laitumkhrah and Police Bazaar, where local bands play everything from classic rock to blues.

  4. 4

    Eat your way through Khasi food

    Try jadoh, pork dishes and local snacks at small eateries in Laitumkhrah and Bara Bazaar, where home-style Khasi cooking is easiest to find.

  5. 5

    Explore the caves of Sohra

    Walk through the lit limestone passages of Mawsmai Cave, or join a guided outing for the longer cave systems of the region.

  6. 6

    Drive to the viewpoints

    Combine Shillong Peak, Laitlum Canyons and Umiam Lake on a scenic half-day loop, timing Umiam for the late-afternoon light.

Weather

Best Time to Visit Shillong

The best time to visit Shillong is October to April. Here is what each season is like.

  • Summer

    March to May

    15°C to 25°C

    Mild and pleasant, with blooming flowers and a welcome escape from the heat of the plains. Pre-monsoon showers begin to arrive by May.

  • Monsoon

    June to September

    15°C to 24°C

    Very heavy rainfall makes the waterfalls spectacular and the hills intensely green, but landslides, fog and slippery trails can disrupt plans.

  • Winter

    October to February

    4°C to 16°C

    Clear, crisp days with cold nights. This is the best time for views, treks and Dawki's clear water; pack warm layers for the evenings.

Getting there

How to Reach Shillong

  • By Air

    Shillong Airport at Umroi has a limited number of flights. Most travellers fly into Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport in Guwahati, which is well connected to the rest of India, and continue by taxi or shared cab, a drive of around three hours.

  • By Rail

    Shillong has no railway station. The nearest major railhead is Guwahati Railway Station, which receives trains from Delhi, Kolkata, Bengaluru and many other cities. Taxis and shared vehicles to Shillong leave from outside the station.

  • By Road

    A good highway climbs from Guwahati to Shillong (about 100 km) past Umiam Lake. Meghalaya state buses and private shared taxis run on this route through the day, and hired cabs are the easiest way to reach Sohra, Dawki and Mawlynnong.

Taste of the city

Famous Food of Shillong

  • Jadoh

    The signature Khasi dish of red rice cooked with pork or chicken, often eaten for breakfast or lunch.

  • Dohneiiong

    Pork cooked in a dark, nutty gravy made with ground black sesame seeds.

  • Tungrymbai

    A pungent fermented soybean preparation, usually cooked with pork and eaten with rice.

  • Pumaloi

    Steamed powdered rice, a simple staple served alongside meat dishes.

  • Pukhlein

    A sweet, deep-fried rice-flour fritter sweetened with jaggery.

  • Momos and thukpa

    Dumplings and noodle soup are everywhere in Shillong, from street stalls to small cafes.

What to Buy in Shillong

  • Cane and bamboo baskets from Bara Bazaar
  • Khasi handloom stoles and shawls
  • Lakadong turmeric and local spices
  • Woollens and winter wear in Police Bazaar

Travel Tips for Shillong

  • Carry an umbrella or rain jacket whatever the season, as weather in the Khasi Hills changes quickly.
  • Many shops and eateries stay closed on Sundays, so plan market visits for other days.
  • Start day trips early; traffic in town and mist on the hill roads can slow you down.
  • Wear sturdy shoes with good grip for root bridge treks and waterfall steps.

FAQs

Shillong Travel FAQs

What is the best time to visit Shillong?

October to April is the best time to visit Shillong, with clear skies and comfortable weather. The monsoon is best for waterfalls but brings heavy rain and occasional road disruption.

How many days are enough for Shillong?

Three to five days is ideal: one or two days for Shillong itself and the rest for day trips to Sohra, Dawki and Mawlynnong.

What is Shillong famous for?

Shillong is famous for its cool climate, pine-clad hills, Khasi culture, live music scene and as the base for visiting Meghalaya's waterfalls and living root bridges.

How do I reach Shillong from Guwahati?

Shillong is about 100 km from Guwahati by road. Taxis, shared cabs and buses leave from Guwahati airport and railway station, and the drive usually takes around three hours.

Is Cherrapunji a good day trip from Shillong?

Yes. Sohra (Cherrapunji) is an easy day trip by road, covering Nohkalikai Falls, Seven Sisters Falls and Mawsmai Cave. Staying overnight is better if you want to trek to the Nongriat root bridges.

Does Shillong get snow?

Snowfall in Shillong is very rare. Winters are cold, especially at night, but the town is usually clear and dry from November to February.